Your First (Vintage) Luxury Watch: A Guide to Buying from a Trusted Dealer
Your first steps into the vintage watch world? We invite you to read some must-knowns about vintage (luxury) watches and where to buy them in order to be sure you'll get the service you are looking for!
There’s something truly special about owning a vintage luxury watch. These timepieces are more than just accessories—they’re pieces of history, crafted with care, precision, and an enduring sense of style. Whether it's an Omega, Rolex, Tudor, or Breitling, the watch you choose tells a story that’s decades in the making.
But where do you start when looking to buy your first vintage luxury watch, especially from a second-hand dealer? Let’s walk you through the process and explain why buying from a trusted dealer makes all the difference.
Why Buy Vintage?
Vintage watches have a unique charm that modern pieces simply can’t replicate. Over the years, these watches develop what collectors call patina. This natural aging process creates subtle changes in the watch’s appearance—whether it's a slightly faded dial, a soft glow on the hands, or a worn leather strap. It’s these small imperfections that give vintage watches their soul. They tell a story, and by wearing them, you become part of that story.
More than just their aesthetic, vintage luxury watches were built to last. Brands like Omega, Rolex, Cartier, and Longines have long been known for their commitment to quality and craftsmanship. These watches were designed to be passed down through generations, which is why so many of them are still ticking away decades later.
Trust in Expertise: Why Buy from an Authorized Dealer?
When purchasing a vintage watch, the most important factor is trust. While the internet is filled with listings, the safest option is to buy from an authorized, reputable second-hand dealer—one that guarantees authenticity and quality.
Here’s why that matters:
In-House Watchmakers: A trustworthy dealer works with experienced, in-house watchmakers who thoroughly inspect, service, and authenticate each timepiece. This ensures that the watch you’re buying is not only genuine but also functioning perfectly.
Authenticity Guarantees: With an authorized dealer, you can feel confident that you’re buying an authentic piece. Vintage luxury watches are highly sought after, making them prime targets for counterfeits. Dealers with a strong reputation will provide a certification of authenticity, backed by expert knowledge of each brand.
Warranty & After-Sales Service: Buying from a reputable dealer also means you’ll receive a warranty on your purchase. Whether it's a Rolex, Zenith, or IWC, your dealer should offer a guarantee, giving you peace of mind that your investment is protected. Plus, you’ll have access to ongoing maintenance services to keep your watch in perfect condition for years to come.
The Beauty of Brands with History
Certain luxury brands have earned a legendary status in the world of horology. Let’s look at a few you should keep in mind as you search for your perfect vintage watch:
Rolex: Synonymous with durability and prestige, Rolex watches are timeless in both style and function. The brand’s vintage models, like the Submariner or Daytona, are highly collectible and represent the pinnacle of watchmaking.
Omega: With a history of space exploration and Olympic timekeeping, Omega watches are both rugged and refined. Vintage Speedmasters, in particular, have become icons, combining elegance with a rich history.
Tudor: As Rolex’s sister brand, Tudor offers incredible value for money. Vintage models like the Tudor Submariner are growing in popularity, offering classic Rolex design cues at a more accessible price.
Cartier: Known for its sophisticated designs, Cartier produces watches that are as much pieces of jewelry as they are timepieces. Vintage Tank and Santos models are beloved for their timeless elegance and unique shapes.
Breitling: Favored by pilots and adventurers, Breitling’s vintage models are robust and feature striking chronograph designs. A vintage Navitimer, for example, is not only stylish but a tool built for precision.
Start Your Journey
When you buy a vintage luxury watch, you're not just purchasing a piece of jewelry or an accessory—you're investing in craftsmanship, history, and style. Finding the right piece from a trusted dealer ensures that your first vintage watch will be a cherished companion for years to come.
At AG Watches, we pride ourselves on our expert knowledge, in-house watchmakers, and our commitment to offering only the finest authentic vintage timepieces. With a wide selection of brands like Omega, Rolex, Cartier, and Breitling, you’re sure to find the perfect watch that fits your style—and your story.
Discover the beauty of vintage watches, and let us help you start your collection with confidence.
Don’t forget to check out our socials for regular updates about available watches and for some fun facts:
Would W. Buffett go for an Omega Speedmaster investment?
Would the W. Buffett of the watch world opt for an Omega Speedmaster investment?
Let it be clear: the Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch is hot among a major part of watch collectors. But should you buy one as an investment? And if so, can you aim for a certain value increasement? Will it just keep its value for years or would it even decrease in value over time? Let’s try to find out!
First of all, it’s important to know that Omega produced many different kinds of (Professional) Moonwatches and as such, we cannot make any generalised case study about ‘the Moonwatch’. If you consider buying one, make sure you know the basics about every single reference in the range you are looking for. We will try to give a proper overview of the different types of Moonwatches, before giving our opinion about the value for money you’ll get and before discussing whether you should invest in an Omega Speedmaster or not. For a more detailed discussion about the different references and their specifics, we’ll share some excellent sources (both online and offline reading material).
1957 - … ?
1957-1978
Omega introduced the iconic Speedmaster back in ‘57 (ref. 2915), not even knowing it would ever become the well-known ‘Moonwatch’. After several tests (11!), NASA decided to use the Omega Speedmaster as there toolwatch for space missions. It was first taken into space back in 1962, three years before becoming the famous Moonwatch used by Ed White during the Gemini program (ref. 105.003). After this, the watch was updated to ref. 105.012 and 145.012 (1966) and these two are known as the references worn on the Moon by the astronauts of the Apollo missions. We call these references ‘pre-Moon’ versions, as Omega did not mention ‘The First Watch Worn On The Moon’ on the case back of these references. All pre-Moon versions have a smooth caseback, with a Hippocampus and just the word ‘Speedmaster’.
After the initial launch of the Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch, Omega focused on the marketing of their chronograph watch in order to make sure people would relate the watch to the space missions. They kept on changing the watch over time and a change of the caliber back in ‘68 was one of the noteworthy changes: caliber 321 was replaced by caliber 861 when introducing ref. 145.022. A second significant change was the replacement of tritium-powered phosphorescent lume on the hands and index markers by non-radioactive pigments (Super-Luminova) at the end of the nineties. We will cover the Speedmasters until 1978 in this part, as it is the last year Omega marked the inside case back with the date.
When looking for a watch from this early era, one must always remember that those watches are 50-60 years old. They might have been polished more than once already and/or they might be damaged quite a lot. If it has not been polished (too much) and if the case is still ‘crisp’ with sharp lugs, many collectors would pay a significant higher price for the watch (even if it would look too damaged to some people).
Some original parts of those watches are very wanted by experienced collectors. They might pay almost as much (or even more) for a specific part of an old Speedmaster, than for an entirely new Speedy (tip: just try to google ‘DON bezel’ and ‘Stepped Dial’). It’s extremely important to make sure you pay the right price for a vintage Speedmaster, according to the (original) parts it contains. Always remember: originality is way more important than perfection (condition).
We advise you to check the following parts very precisely, ranked from very important to less important:
The Dial
The Case
The movement
The bezel
The hands
The pushers
The Crown
(the bracelet and end links)
In order to be able to cover the complete history of the Moonwatch in this blog, we will not spend more time discussing certain differences between the first references, nor will we talk about all specifics of those references (e.g. the assymetric and straight cases). We advise you to check the following website for a very detailed (and free) explanation of those references: Speedmaster101.
1978-now
Omega introduced some further variations of the pre-Moon references and started to optimise their cash cow by introducing anniversary models. They used different kinds of calibers and changed parts like the bezel, the dial and the bracelet.
The most important things in this part can be summarized in some bullet points:
the stepped dial was used until 1976 (ref. 145.022), before it was replaced by the domed dial;
the tritium-powered phosphorescent lume on the hands and index markers was replaced at the end of the ‘90s with non-radioactive pigments (Super-Luminova);
the ‘classic’ Reduced version (39mm) was introduced in 1988 and sold until 2009 (automatic movement);
the ‘display back’ or ‘open base back’ was first introduced back in 1980 on a (white) gold limited series;
lots of special - and limited (anniversary) editions were already released (and they still do these days), as Omega tries (and succeeds) to attract new generations and to keep on triggering excisting fans;
also the boxes have changed over time, with some special editions for very specific references.
So… Should I buy one?
In order to decide whether an Omega Speedmaster is a good value for money investment, we would like to make some statements:
Vintage Omega Speedmasters increase in value year after year, but it’s crucial to make sure to check the originality of its parts and to make sure that the price is determined based on the presence of those parts.
The modern Speedmasters need time to prove themselves over time, but many experienced collectors agree about the following positions:
References without tritium are secondary to those who still have it;
Not all limited editions/anniversary editions are expected to raise (significant) in value over time. Some examples of editions which already have:
Omega Speedmaster ‘Tintin’
Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11, 20th Anniversary
Omega Speedmaster ‘Snoopy’
Omega Speedmaster Alaska II
Speedmaster Apollo 11, 45th Anniversary
Speedmaster #SpeedyTuesday Tribute to Alaska III
Omega Speedmaster Schumacher Legend Limited Edition
Omega Speedmaster Limited Edition Speedy Tuesday ‘Ultraman’ 2
The importance of a ‘full set’ cannot be underestimated, although it’s not the most important thing when an experienced collector is hunting a (very) vintage watch. The watch itself will stand for the major part of the total value and the rest is bonus.
We believe that the Omega Speedmaster has proven its functionality, its attraction and its investment value for plural decades already and we do believe that at least a (large) part of all editions will make sure even more value will be added to the overall value of this watch. Nevertheless, we communicate with our clients in a very transparant way that not every ref. will increase in value over time. For this reason we opt to buy those watches (the new, modern references) only on the second hand market, as prices are mostly already better in line with the actual value of the watch (compared to the retail prices for new pieces, including taxes).
Before deciding which piece to hunt for, we suggest the following additional reading materials:
https://omegaforums.net/ (forum)
Moonwatch Only: The Ultimate Omega Speedmaster Guide - Gregoire Rossier & Anthony Marquie (book)
Moonwatch Only: 60 Years of Omega Speedmaster - Gregoire Rossier & Anthony Marquie (book)